Surf, yes!
I was nagging my brother to take me out to surf since he had told me that he's been really into surfing for about 2 years.
During my stay in Japan, he arranged a free lesson with a surf shop owner in his neighborhood. Finally it turned to my first experience of riding the wave! We went to one of the most popular surf spots, Kugenuma Beach. It is never like Hawaii or California but the beach about 15 minues from my bro's apt, is easy to access and friendly with its OK-level waves for beginners. One drawback is it's crowded.. All the blackheads floating in the ocean are waiting for the next waves. I hear that there would be 600 people in the water on a weekend... How coule it be possible...? Japan is overpopulated anyway.
This is me full of excitement, waxing a board. The wax helps to avoid slipping off from the board in the ocean.
The instructor, Mr. Naito (owner of the surf shop Janis Tsujido: http://janis-tujido.jp/, only available in Japanese at this point..) taught us the very basic of surfing, the rules in the ocean such as how to wait for waves, how the wave breaks, etc. He started surfing when he was 18. Cool.. He offers free lessons during mornings of the weekdays, if you're in that area, DON'T MISS OUT THIS OPPORTUNITY!!!
By the way, you see two surf boards in this picture, the blue one is longer called fun board. It's easier to learn how to surf for beginners as it has stability in the ocean but unlike long board, it's not too big to handle. The another one is short board, that is my brother's. It is more for flexibility and making tricks like sharp turns, etc..
Ok, now let's go over the technical side.
This is the step #1, position yourself right on the board. The ideal is 1 1/2 hand distance from the nose (the top of a surf board) to your fingers when you stretch all your arms way up. Start paddling with your arms to go further and wait for waves.
Paddle again when the good wave comes. You have to paddle like crazy to catch the wave. Remember, the same wave never comes again.
Step #2, this is really a critical stage to make sure you are about to start riding the wave on the board. When you feel the wave is right under your board and it starts pushing you forward, you gonna have to change your position like a track athlete's starting position. It must be done in a split second. If you miss the moment, it's over. My legs are apart a bit too much.
Step #3, during the ride, bend your knees as low as possible. Keep your head straight up, and look the direction you're going to. Your head functions as a steering wheel.
Once you get into the ocean, it's very quiet.. We patiently wait for good waves. My instructor said "OK, this is a good one. Why not, Onda-san (Ms. Onda)?! " I paddled and stayed focused not to miss the moment..and..
I was wiped out! Oh gosh, how many times I crashed, rolled over in the tide, how many gallons of salt water I swallowed .. But never gave up.
Finally!!!! Look, check me out! I know I look like a drown alien survived from his spaceship crash in the ocean. I am standing..!!
Here is the better example. Look at my brother about to ride the wave, he even can see the wave, figuring how close, how it approaches him. Recognizing the good wave is the key for a good ride.
See his knees bent all way down to his board so that he is stable and it's easy to change the direction.
Surfing is mad fun. I'm totallly hooked on it. Where can I find sufing spots in NJ/NY areas?? I need more practice!!
posted by naocontemporary at
8:57 PM
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